Dijon, France

 
Pootling around Dijon’s petit medieval centre, it’s easy to imagine its former glory. The 13th century Notre Dame church; the grandiose Palais des Ducs (which today hosts the Musée des Beaux Arts); and a multitude of beautiful, limestone abbayes, hotel particulaires and other preserved buildings from the 14th-18th centuries pay handsome and eternal tribute to the city’s former prosperity.

Though at its most potent in the 11th-14th centuries (thanks to the dynamic Dukes of Burgundy) even after integration into France in the late 15th century Dijon remained an important – not to mention wealthy - hub. Today, the capital of Burgundy is high on many a traveller’s itinerary, and not just for its ubiquitous mustard.

In fact the famed condiment, as you’d expect, represents only a tiny part of the city’s food scene. Burgundian gastronomy is renowned throughout the world and is well represented here via an impressive range of local delicacies. There’s snails in parsley butter, oeufs en meurette (eggs cooked in wine), Coq au vin,Bœuf bourguignon…all of which can be enjoyed alongside sweeter local delights like crème de cassis (the blackcurrant liqueur used in kirs) and pain d'épices (gingerbread).

It’s testament to Burgndy’s love of food that Dijon boasts no less than three Michelin-starred restaurants, with a couple more a short drive away for good measure. The most established (and the most formal) is Le Pré aux Clercs. Located in an 18th century building just behind the 15th century Palais des Ducs, this restaurant has been serving food since 1833.

For the last 35 years it’s been under the aegis of Jean-Pierre Billoux and his wife, Marie Françoise, who work together to offer exquisite service and impeccable creations like pigeon terrine and meurette d’escargots in an dining room that’s half antiquated, half Asian chic.

Slightly more convivial, but just as refined in the kitchen, is the lovely Stephane Derbord on Place de Wilson. Watched over by chef Stephane's welcoming wife, Isabelle, this popular eaterie offers a range of meat, game and seafood dishes – think catfish caught in the Saône, duck foie gras medallions, local cheeses – that balance tradition with playful subversion.

Modernists will thrill to the Hostellerie du Chapeau Rouge, the third Michelin-starred spot in town. Set inside a freshly renovated boutique hotel, the restaurant’s sleek Phillipe Stark furnishings and minimalist design tell you all you need to know about the cuisine. There aren’t many heavy classics here, just light, innovative international fare starring such non-French ingredients as Chorizo and Bok Choi.

Dijon also offers many less refined and more affordable dining options of course. Romantics will adore Dame d'Aquitaine, a restaurant set in a medieval crypt. It’s hard not to feel humbled by the elegant, vaulted ceiling as you try out wonderful dishes like duck cooked in cassis and other dishes from Burgundy and South-West France. Prices here are particularly reasonable given the quality of the food.

More well-priced choices can be found along the bustling rue Monge. Of particular note is Le Chabrot, a vibrant eaterie with red, yellow and green walls, wavy mirrors and designer lamps. Chef Jean- François Vachez creates correspondingly funky dishes (Coq au Vin served on Tagliatelli, fr example) for a suitably youthful crowd. With over 200 wines to choose from and a small bar area with high tables, this is also a great stop for a tipple.

A few doors along, located inside a medieval courtyard, is Le Sauvage, an adjunct of the charming two-star Hotel Sauvage. This is a carnivore’s paradise, a place where steaks, pork cutlets, duck and sides of lamb are grilled to perfection by chefs in white hats on a large open hearth. It’s a friendly, upbeat place, and especially popular with families at weekends so be sure to book ahead.

It goes without saying of course that all of this fantastic food can be washed down with some of the best wines in France, nay the world. The famed Cote D’or region lies literally on Dijon’s doorstep. One of the region’s hallmarks is its diversity meaning you’ll find just as many robust reds (predominantly Pinot Noir) as crisp whites (predominantly Chardonnay), and most of the restaurants mentioned above will be only too pleased to guide you through the sometimes bewildering array of local varieties.

If you’re feeling particularly flush you can try and track down a rare bottle of Romanée-Conti, though be prepared to spend up to 2000 euros. It’s grown just a few kilometers outside Dijon. No doubt it goes great with a jar of mustard.